Italy, the Last Day: San Sano, Siena, and Life Changes

I’ve been putting off writing this post because it makes me sad. Sad to think our week in Italy is already THREE WEEKS AGO. At the time it didn’t feel like the week was moving fast, which Timmy and I commented on a number of times since we were so afraid the days were going to speed by without us knowing it. But each day passed normally and at an even tempo, allowing us to enjoy every minute of every day, but still, poof, it was over like that. Writing about our last day makes it crystal clear that this trip is ever so quickly becoming in the past.

Our last day in Italy was my second favorite day. After I’d gotten over the puking and drunkenness of the day before, we decided to take our time this day. Originally planning to go to Bologna and Prato, we decided earlier in the week to use our last day to sleep, relax, and take our time. We woke up, finally learned how to work the coffee maker in the villa (believe me, this was a freaking ordeal the entire week. I finally found the instructions, and it still took me a day to work it correctly), and sat outside to enjoy the beautiful morning.

San Sano, a town so small you can’t even find it on Google Maps, even when you zoom all the way in, is absolutely adorable. The town had a monastery that was converted into villas, with a small restaurant (that we only ate at once, unfortunately), a little store, a church, and vineyard. That was it. We were surrounded on all sides by grapes and olive trees. It was beautiful. We spent the morning walking around and enjoying this beautiful town. Warning: I tried to narrow down the pictures to include in this post, but I just couldn’t. The pictures don’t do this town justice; the views were unbelievable.

After touring the cuteness of San Sano, we took about a 15 minute drive to Castello di Brolio on a recommendation from the Muriccis. It was incredible, and we realized later, funnily enough, it ended up being a recommended spot in our guidebook for wine tastings! Apparently, the original owner of this castle, which overlooked miles and miles and miles of Tuscan hills, was the original creator of the Chianti wine recipe. Pretty cool huh? The property also had its own church, which was small but beautiful.

The castle itself was pretty, but the views…holy shit, I can’t even explain. These were the types of views you can only see in your mind’s eye. To see it in person was just unreal.

My favorite pictures came from this part of our day. Timmy wanted to recreate a picture he loved of his father, and I think it’s one of the best I’ve ever taken.

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I also snapped an excellent one of Timmy taking a selfie. 🙂

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After our trip to the Castle, we had a free wine tasting with our tour tickets, bought some wine, and headed to Siena, about 30 minutes away. My mom told me the Duomo in Siena was one of her favorite places in Italy she’d ever seen, so I was super excited to get there and see what she meant. The town itself is on a ginormous hill; Timmy and I took one look at the climb, and we almost decided HELL NO. But, cleverly enough, there were escalators that took you up the hill, so thank god for that transportation relief.

Once we got there, we were amazed. This small medieval town was so cute and so beautiful. We walked towards the Piazza del Duomo, with Santa Maria di Scala across from the entrance to the Duomo. The façade of the Duomo was unbelievable. The sun was starting to set, so we sat outside and took it all in.

We got tickets to see the major sites (Duomo, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, the Baptistry, and the Crypt). When we entered the Duomo, I don’t think I’ve ever been more overwhelmed at the beauty of something in my entire life. Timmy said later that he got emotional inside the Duomo as well. We totally got why my mom loved it so much.

I’ve never seen anything like it. It was constructed with black and white marble, there was art everywhere, including the floors, ceilings, and walls, with carved busts of all the popes lining the entire interior of the cathedral. It was enormous. They had planned on making this cathedral the largest in the world, but ran out of money, which was lucky because they realized after that the foundation could never have supported the additions anyway.

If you go to Siena, this had better be a stop for you. I can’t imagine trying to do this in the summer because of the crowds, so try to go when you have time to wander and not feel pressure or anxiety. It’s worth every second.

I tried to keep the photos to a minimum on this post, but believe me, they don’t do this Cathedral any justice.

Afterwards, we went to the Piazza del Campo, home of the famous Palazzo Publico, Torre del Mangia, and the Palio di Siena, a twice-annual horse race that gives me anxiety just thinking about it. The sun was about to set and cast the most incredible light on the Piazza, so we sat down for our last dinner in Italy at Alla Speranza, while a group of singers sang songs on the other side of the Piazza. It was magical.

The day, from start to finish, was perfect. So many memories from this week, I don’t think my heart can contain them all without bursting. This was truly the trip of a lifetime. Thank you to the Sacinos for donating your villa and being so generous. Without you, we would never have had an opportunity like this to make these experiences a part of our lives.

Oh, I almost forgot to share our life changing moment, in case you were wondering…

We got engaged at Castello Di Brolio. 🙂

More on that story later.

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♥, VB

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Italy Day 6: The Cooking Class

Oh man, this day might have been my favorite day of the week (you’ll read about the other favorite day soon). I had been looking forward to this day for weeks, and finally, we got to check it off my life bucket list.

A cooking class in Italy. It was as amazing as it sounds.

We started out the day with no food in our bellies and espresso when we arrived at Ristorante Malborghetto around 9 AM. Owned and run by the incredibly talented Chef Simone Muricci and his wife Alessia, he is a true Tuscan chef, teaching us true Tuscan recipes. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?!

We began by receiving our own embroidered aprons, with our names and the date of our cooking class. They were quite possibly the cutest gifts I’ve ever received with purchase. 🙂

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe restaurant itself is mighty small, but it felt so homey. We absolutely loved this place, and I think we’re still going through withdrawals from having been away from it for so long now.

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We were led to the back of the house and promptly began assembling dessert, tiramisu. Holy cow this was an easy recipe, and the lack of an overwhelming coffee taste made this my favorite tiramisu ever. We prepared it first so that it could have time to set in the fridge while we created the rest of the menu.

Next up was my favorite dish of all time, pasta with bolognese sauce (also known as ragù alla bolognese in Italy). If I could bathe in it, I would. We started by grinding the vegetables (red onion, celery, and carrots) in the grinder, which Chef said he liked best because of the high water content that came out of grinding vs. dicing. Then we sauteed those down, and added the rest of the ingredients: ground beef, pureed tomatoes, red wine, and then salt and pepper at the end. The most incredible cooking tip I may have ever received came from Chef Simone: in order to continue simmering any type of food without destroying the moisture in the food or adding a different taste, add water. Keep adding water a little bit at a time until you’re ready to take it off the stove. Genius!

Next was making the pasta from scratch. I have attempted this in the past to dismal results for a variety of reasons: 1) I definitely wasn’t using the right flour (semolina my friends, semolina); 2) I have a manual pasta maker, which you technically need three hands for (one to feed the pasta into the machine, one to catch the pasta as it goes through the machine, and one to crank the machine!); and 3) I’m an extremely visual and kinesthetic learner. I need to see someone doing something (usually only once) and I can do it immediately; however, for things that require a certain consistency to work, I need to be able to touch it to learn how it should be done. This was one of the most valuable lessons of the day. Once we made the dough, we set it aside for about 20 minutes with a damp towel over it to keep the dough from creating a crust.

We let the sauce simmer for a least another hour before we even thought to cook the pasta (which took like 3 minutes since fresh cooks faster than dried). We started on the secondi (second course), wild boar sausage with cannellini beans (salsiccia e fagioli). I for one love cannellini beans because of their creaminess, but I’ve never attempted to make beans from their dried versions. Good thing we didn’t have to this day either! In fact, we used leftover cannellini beans from a previous recipe! Chef Simone explained that many Tuscan recipes try to use and reuse leftovers in as many ways as possible to save money. This was actually the third version of cannellini beans used in this particular recipe, and it did not disappoint!

*At this point in the cooking, I think our lack of sugar intake led to an inability to really retain the information. Thank god he gave us a laminated copy of the recipes!

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We left that to simmer, and we cut the pasta and laid it to dry a little. We also made parmigiano reggiano bowls for the pasta! I could’ve stood there and eaten all of the bowls myself, but I decided to exercise some self-control and wait for the actual meal. We heated up grated parmesan in a sauce pan, and waited for the edges to turn a golden brown. Once that happened, we took it off the stove and, with the help of a long skewer, pulled the cheese off the pan onto an overturned bowl. A few seconds later, it hardened, and voila, you have an edible bowl!

Finally, we prepared the appetizer, porcini crostini with shaved truffles. Truffles are also super common in Tuscany, and when heated (by shaving it onto warm food), the aroma they release….JEEZY CREEZY, THE STUFF OF GODS I TELL YOU. This was also a super easy recipe: just grill the porcini, add a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and chopped rosemary and garlic to both sides and grill, grill the bread, assemble, and voila, deliciousness!

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And now, our favorite part…THE EATING AND DRINKING! We sat down in the restaurant and began to eat the fruit of our labor. Everything was incredible. My mouth is still watering thinking about it. We also enjoyed the paired wine with each course, and let me tell you a secret: it’s always never a good idea to stuff your face with food and wine after not eating anything for close to 5 hours. I got greedy and paid the price.

Yes, we polished off all of those bottles. Yes, we ate all that food. And yes, I promptly threw up everything we ate because I was a pig, drunk, and unable to monitor my body’s internal full-meter.

It didn’t ruin the time we had, so no pity. We booked a 3-hour cooking class that turned into 7 hours because of our lively conversations with Chef Simone and Alessia. The stories he had about living in Tuscany, running his own restaurant (in the middle of nowhere), and becoming successful at his trade…these moments, my friends, are what traveling is all about.

[Side note: for those of you who continue to think that America is becoming socialist, or Obama is socialist, or whatever, keep this in mind: Simone told us they weren’t allowed to turn the heat on (neither at home nor the restaurant) until November 1 because it was ILLEGAL to do so otherwise. Our villa was only tile, so we froze our asses off every night when the temperature dipped to 40 degrees. Yeah, we don’t live like that in the States, so shut it.]

These people were the salt of the earth. Hard-working, fun-loving, decent people with a successful restaurant, doing what they love. It was an honor to learn from him, and a joy to hang out with him and his wife for an afternoon. We probably could’ve hung out with them all week; in fact, we went back that night for dinner (because let’s face it, I had no food in my system), and it was again, incredible.

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unreal…ravioli with melted pecorino cheese and pears

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The dream for Timmy for the week: bistec a la fiorentina, served on a hot stone

Thank you to the Muriccis for not only showing us a good time, teaching us how to cook, and making us feel welcome, but for also giving Timmy the recommendation for our next adventure. It was a doozy.

♥, VB

Italy Day 4: Florence

I remember the first time I went to Florence…it was summer 2004, and my friends and I were in the middle of a 6-week study abroad course in London. We took a four day weekend trip to Italy, flying into Rome, doing the whole stay in hostels thing (which looking back now, GAH-ROSS). We were taking a train to Florence, then to Milan, but once we got to the train station in Rome, we couldn’t find Florence on the schedules. We searched and searched, and panicked because the last train heading out to any city starting with an “F” was about to leave. We said eff it, let’s just get on this train and hope it ends up in Florence. We ended up in…

Firenze. Which is Italian for Florence. Oh, and we were idiots.

We got there, immediately boarded a bus to who knows where, forties of Heineken in our hands (yes, we were those Americans), and got off at our stop, in the middle of nowhere. No street lamps, pure darkness. We linked hands and attempted to walk up the hill to our hostel but completely chickened out. So we hightailed back into town, dropped big bucks on a Holiday Inn, and packed ourselves into our wonderfully comfortable hotel room.

The breakfast was pretty yummy too.

But this time was a 180 degree experience. First of all, I knew which train to take this time, so a million bonus points to me. And we got there around 10 AM and made a day of it. We only went to to the Uffizi and the Galleria dell’Accademia at the perfect times with light tourist traffic (and I bought tickets online for the Uffizi so we didn’t have to wait in the line, which was still ridiculous in October), so we spent the rest of the day walking. And walking. And walking some more.

Florence isn’t my favorite city in Italy. It’s really tourist-dense, even at the end of October (worse in summer), and very English-speaking, which takes away some of the magic of being in Italy. It’s still unbelievably gorgeous and history-rich, so I can’t hate on Firenze too much. It really is worth it to visit.

Tip: there was a crazy line waiting to climb to the top of the Duomo at 10 AM on a Tuesday in October. Imagine it in summer. We took the tip from our guidebook to climb to the top of the Campanile instead as there’s a way shorter line and pretty much the same view. I think the Duomo is 467 steps, the Campanile is 414 steps. Pretty even. It’s 10 euros, and you need stamina. We were huffing it up, and I think my legs almost gave out about 4 times, but it was completely worth it.

I attempted to take some food recommendations into account, but because October was insane, I added the recs (to the itinerary I posted earlier) but printed out an earlier version that didn’t have those recs on them. Good job Victoria.

We did take a recommendation from our Fodor’s Italy guide book and ate at La Casalinga in the Santo Spirito area. It ended up being the meal that lasted us into the following morning because we’re American and we totally went overboard. Even our waiter’s eyes bulged as we kept rattling off menu items to order.

I think the best and only way to see a city is to wander through it. I made sure that as we wandered, we would stumble upon the major sites. But people watching, taking our time, connecting with each other and the city, it’s an amazing feeling. Enjoy the pictures.

While at the Galleria dell’Academie, wandering around and around the David statue, we accidentally stumbled upon the greatest Long Island stereotypes ever. Two couples had hired a tour guide to take them around Florence, and as they were viewing the David, one of the women said, “I can’t believe it’s still standing after all (think awl) this time. I can’t believe it hasn’t fallen (think fawlen) over!” Her husband replied, “Babe, it’s physics, see the stump, it balances it so that it doesn’t fall (think fawl) over.”

So that was amusing obviously because accents are great. However, the best part was them viewing a painting where the main figure was holding a picture of Moses. But they misheard the guide and thought the painting was of Moses. This is the conversation that ensued:

Man (imagine with thick accent and spoken fast): “So uh, that’s not Moses?”

Tour guide: “No, no, see, he’s holding a picture of Moses.”

Man: “So that’s not Moses saying, ‘Uh hey, let my people go’?”

No sir, considering Moses wasn’t riding a horse while he gave that speech and wasn’t alive during the 1400s.

But even better was the other couple’s reactions to pre-Renaissance art. He said, “Yea, I like Renaissance art better. They painted a lot better then.”

Yes, that’s why it’s called the Renaissance sir. Americans always come through when you need them to.

The last two days were probably my favorite days ever so stay tuned.

♥, VB

Italy Day Two: Perugia and Cortona

Before I forget, I was notified by one of my friends last week that although our Italian selfies were lovely, she wanted more food posts. Those pictures we only took on the nice camera, so let me share with you our first meal in Tuscany. Once we got to our villa after leaving Rome and unloaded everything Saturday night, we made our way 2 km up the mountain to what will probably be one of our favorite places on earth for the rest of our lives.

Ristorante Malborghetto was a haven of unreal food, wine, and people. We were already signed up to take a cooking class there on Thursday morning, and we definitely came back for another dinner that week; we just couldn’t stay away. Truffles were everywhere, handmade pasta, the sauces, the meat, the cheese…where was I again? Oh yeah, so we ate dinner, filled ourselves with an amazing Chianti, and then went back and COMPLETELY PASSED OUT into a delightful sleepy bliss.

Happy accidents can make for the best memories. After struggling to get up on Sunday morning (which also contained a nice Daylight Savings time switch, so that was fun), we made our way by car to the train station in Montevarchi about 30 minutes away only to find out that we had missed the train. A combination of Timmy getting up too late and me reading the incorrect time on the printout wasn’t the greatest start to the day.

So we sucked it up and decided to drive 1.5 hours to Perugia in order to enjoy the 2014 Eurochocolate Festival. Yes, that says Eurochocolate. I unknowingly planned our week vacation to coincide with the final day of the week-long Eurochocolate festival, and you better believe that was one of the first things I added to our agenda when I found that out.

On our way through winding Tuscan roads to the Umbria region, we spotted a few things that made us wonder if we were imagining things. On the side of the road (and keep in mind we’re talking RURAL roads…early on a Sunday morning), not once but twice, we saw hookers.

Hookers. Hooking. On a Sunday morning in the middle of Tuscany.

So yeah, that happened.

Anyways, we got to Perugia, which happens to be one of the best preserved medieval cities in Italy, parked, and made our way to the mini-train to go up the mountain. The mini-train was freaking adorable, and felt like we were on a ride at Disney, making our way up the side of a mountain to the town.

We arrived, and HOLY CRAP. The views were unbelievable.

Perugia in panorama

Perugia in panorama

Unreal. We walked around the town, trying to control our anxiety through MASSIVE crowds, bought a few chocolate goodies, and loved the town all-around.

We found our way back to the car and on our way home, we saw that Cortona was just a short drive away. So we decided, why the hell not? It wasn’t on our original plans, but we made it happen anyway. A good college friend of Timmy’s got married in Cortona last year, and we weren’t able to make it. We wanted to, but after having moved to Florida and starting new jobs, it wasn’t in the budget. And now, after having visited this town (during a sunset no less, which definitely didn’t suck), we can see why they chose this magical place to marry.

Side note: there was a sweet little cafe in one of the main piazzas that cracked me up and I had to share with you (although you probably won’t enjoy this is as much as my family). My Yaya (the one who turned 100 in March) has always said my name as though it were in Italian. She is a full española so it’s funny that she can’t say my name in Spanish. She leaves out the “c” altogether so that it sounds like Vittoria. And lo and behold, what do we see in Cortona?

We loved this city. It was unbelievably beautiful, and the people, oh the people! We stopped in a wine store and were perusing the selections when an older Italian gentleman stood up and just started telling us which ones to get. “Very good wine” as he pointed to some Tuscan choices. He was dead right, the Syrah was DELISH. And he didn’t even work there. 🙂

Later that evening, we went to the local restaurant, La Grotta della Rana. We only ate there once because we could NOT figure out when they were open. Some days they were open for lunch, some nights they were open for dinner, but never when we walked over (this place was literally 50 feet from our villa). So that was definitely unfortunate because the food was incredible and we never got to the try the wine made from the village’s vineyard. And you may notice the wine bottle we ordered, which was delicious. We tried a lot of Chianti this trip simply because we were in the heart of Chianti region and we would’ve been dumb not to.

We may or may not have ordered a bottle of wine at every lunch and dinner that week, minus 1-2 meals. Yeah, it was that kind of vacation.

So that was day two. Don’t say I didn’t warn you about the massive amount of pictures. More to come!

♥, VB

Italy Day One: Rome

So, I don’t know if you knew this, but we went to Italy last week. (Here’s the back story.) And it was just about the worst vacation ever.

That was maaaaaaybe the biggest lie ever. It was incredible. From start to finish, if I don’t say so myself, I planned the greatest week we’ve had in our almost 5 years together and we also had the most amazing weather anyone ever could have asked for. I did ask Timmy if he wanted to be involved in the planning, and being the ever-so-wise partner that he is, he replied, “Nah. You got this.”

And get it I did.

Here’s what we were supposed to do (and yes I created a timetable itinerary that I will never apologize for. It was awesome because I’m awesome):

Sat Oct 25

Rome

  • Arrive in Rome @ 7:30a (Drop luggage off at car rental place?)
  • Take train into Rome (Termini station, 11 euros, take to Spagna metro)
  • Spend day in Rome
    • Start in Spagna area
    • walk to Corso/Navona/Campo
    • walk to Vatican (2pm tickets (bring voucher) to Vatican museums/Sistine Chapel)
    • train from Ottaviano to Colloseo (12 euros for entry to Foro Romano, Colloseo, and Colle Palatino)
    • walk to Capitolino Hill
    • walk to Termini station
    • train back to Fiumcino
  • Pick up car around 6p
  • Drive to San Sano ~2.5 hrs (arrive ~9p)
  • Unpack, shower, buy food/dinner
Sun Oct 26

Perugia

  • Leave @ 8a
  • Drive 30 min to Montevarchi station (free parking)
  • Train depart from Montevarchi @ 8:48a, arrives Perugia 10:18a ($56 total)
  • Take minitrain into town for Eurochocolate 2014
  • Depart 7:41p, arrive Montevarchi 9:06p
Mon Oct 27

Parma/Reggio Emilia/Modena

  • Leave @ 8a
  • Drive to Parma by car ~2 hr 47 min drive (arrive ~11a)
  • Stop at Reggio Emilia and Modena (http://www.balsamico.it/) on way home
  • Spend day traveling
Tues Oct 28

Florence

  • Leave @ 8:15a
  • Drive 30 min to Montevarchi station (free parking)
  • Train depart from Montevarchi @ 9:07a, arrives Florence 9:48a in Santa Maria Novella (Piazza Del Stazione) ($36 total)
  • Spend day in Florence
    • 11:45 A tickets for Uffizi (bring voucher)
    • Lunch at I Due Fratellini, Via dei Cimatori, 38, 50122 Firenze
    • Gallerie dell’Academia
    • Dinner at 4 Leoni, Via dè Vellutini, 1r, 50125 Firenze
  • Train departs 9:09p, arrives Montevarchi @ 9:47p
Wed Oct 29

Lucca/Pisa

  • Drive to Lucca ~2 hr drive
  • Stop in Pisa on way back
    • tickets to climb Tower, 9 a.m.- 6 p.m
  • Get gas
Thurs Oct 30

Siena/Gaiole

  • 9:30am-12:30pm: ½ day cooking class at Ristorante Malborghetto
  • Siena/Gaiole for the afternoon by car (15 min drive)
Fri Oct 31

Bologna/Prato

  • Drive to Bologna ~2 hr drive
  • Spend day in Bologna
  • Eat at Ristorante Diana (Via dell’Indipendenza, 24, 40121 Bologna))
  • Stop in Prato on way home
Sat Nov 1
  • Leave @ 4a
  • Drive to Rome ~2.5 hr drive (arrive ~7a)
  • Stop for gas, return car
  • Flight leaves at 9:15a

Did it turn out exactly like that? Of course not, but every omission/addition to our days was incredible and couldn’t have turned out any better than it did. This is the map of where we actually went this trip. You should be impressed, in case you were wondering what your reaction should be.

Italy map

We learned from our traveling mistakes in March when we went to Spain, so this time we flew separately from our cities to Atlanta, and then flew together straight to Rome. The 9.5 hr flight FLEW by, we seriously couldn’t believe it. I think back to all the times my family and I traveled to Spain growing up, AND HOW DID WE GET THROUGH THOSE FLIGHTS??!?! Those back-of-the-seat screens are the greatest invention ever. I saw three movies by the time we landed. 🙂

I also learned from our super difficult time getting over jet lag in March, so we tried to sleep on the plane ride over, but alas, that was a bust. Neither one of us can sleep on moving vehicles and surprise surprise, sleeping sitting up is a very challenging thing to do. We landed in Rome around 7 AM their time, and proceeded to spend every last waking minute soaking up the city and as much daylight as we could to get our internal clocks set to the local time. We didn’t end up making it to the Roman Forum or Capitoline Hill as planned but after having walked all over the city to the other locations on no sleep, we’d had enough.

These are pictures from Day One and only Day One of our trip. You will see as I keep posting that Italy is freaking ridiculous. I’ve been there once before in 2004 when I studied abroad in London, and my friends and I took a 4-day weekend trip to Rome, Florence, and Milan. It prepared me well for enjoying the sites this time around (as well as reminded me of the moronic adventures we experienced there when we were such little 21-yr old babies).

Enjoy the pictures because there’s a lot of them. More to come!

The Pantheon in panorama

The Pantheon in panorama

♥, VB